Zampa - no frills Italian small plates

Last evening my friend Sonia and I dined at Zampa and had an overall pleasant experience. I appreciate this place for its diverse menu selection and cozy, warm ambiance, but the food can be unpredictable. I've found that generally, I have the best luck with the appetizers and the small plates, which focus on the flavors of 1 or 2 simple, fresh, and high quality ingredients. While the "large plates" are decent, they aren't the best depictions of simple Italian food that I've had, and the portions are anything but large. However, combining a relaxed yet energetic wine-bar vibe, friendly Italian servors, affordable prices, a-typical NY restaurant wait-times, and quite a varied menu, this place remains high on my list of neighborhood faves.

While I would classify Zampa as Italian, I wouldn't recommend it for those expecting homemade pastas and typical Italian mains. In fact, the only pasta on the menu is the Lasagna Bolognese, and the main courses are more inventive than what you'd expect at an Italian ristorante. However, I'd be surprised if you found trouble finding something tasty - there are tons of crostini, cheeses, meats, antipasti, and panini to choose from - carnivores and vegetarians alike are sure to find a winner.

Sonia and I started with the selection of 3 crostini - White Bean and Duck Proschutto, White Bean and Rapini, and Ricotta with Roasted Red Pepper. While I usually prefer ricotta with sweeter accompaniments, the roasted pepper combo happened to be my favorite. The white bean mixture had a deliciously chunky texture and was very well-seasoned, and all three crostini were perfectly toasted and piled high with toppings as I like. Next, we shared the Fennel and Arugula Salad with Oranges, which was great - light and refreshing with a well-balanced citrus-licorce-y flavor. The crostini and the salad was the perfect amount of food for an appetizer course.

Then, I had the Oven Poached Salmon with Lentils and Green Beans. While it was gorgeously plated, the salmon was overcooked, and the dill / parsley pesto piled atop clashed with the mild flavor of the lentils. The lentils, however, were actually perfectly cooked - a bit al dente as I prefer. Sonia ordered the Braised Short Rib Special, which was unfortunately overpowered by fat and bone and difficult to dissect due to the tiny serving dish in which it was served. The fat factor wouldn't have been so hard to work around had the bone been in a wider dish. Still, the meat that she did find looked tender and juicy, and Sonia said she was pleased with the dish. The warm, muffin shaped polenta served on the side definitely contributed to her evaluation.
One more bone to pick...I have to say their white wine needs to be served a few degrees warmer...my glass felt like it had been in the freezer, and it weakened the wine's flavor. But, the seriously heavy pours and the pre-glass selection tasting definitely made up for it!

Despite the imperfections I found in their main courses, I would recommend Zampa to anyone looking for a laid back, no frills, casual dining experience in the presence of an unpretentious crowd, or in the mood for a wide selction of italian antipasti. Don't spread it around though...this is one of the few places in New York city where you can be guaranteed a seat (or at least a minimal wait) on any night of the week.

Address: 306 W 13th St between 8th Ave & 4th St
Website: www.zampanyc.com