Sunday, February 28, 2010

Mole West Village - an answer to my prayers

When my friend Sonia (aka Runway Hippie) moved to the Lower East Side last year, she discovered a tiny yet magical Mexican joint called Mole. I visited once and instantly became an addict for its tableside gaucamole, tangy margaritas, and amazingly varied menu of authentic Mexican dishes. Though the space is a bit cramped. its charm and family-owned feel was a fresh breath of air among the overload of Mexican restaurant imposters (ehem...Dos Caminos..). The only issues for me was the hassle of getting to the LES everytime I wanted to go!

Well, I can complain no longer as Mole number 2 just opened only three blocks away from my apartment. Talk about convenience! And not only that, this Mole is larger (though relatively quite small), and still seemingly undiscovered - a party of two before 7.30pm on most nights can most likely be seated within 15 minutes. I've been desperate to visit since it opened, and I finally got a chance tonight with a few of my friends from Semester at Sea. Though their company makes any food taste good, I can honestly say that the quality of the food at this location was just as good as that in the first.

To start, the drinks were just perfectly sweet - something VERY important for me in a cocktail. I can't stand overly sugary drinks, and Mole does a perfect "Paloma" with tequila, grapefruit soda, and lime that is a great compliment to the salty Mexican food. My friends ordered the special "acai" flavored margarita - also deliciously tangy and sweet.

The guacamole was incredible as usual, and the chips served with it were satisfyingly sturdy and crisp.

I ordered the grilled chicken tacos as a main course - with rice, beans, salsa, and a small side salad at just $14, I definitely got my money's worth.

My friend Prin ordered the Carnitas special, which was also delicious.

Another creative dish on our table was the vegetarian burrito served with cabbage, mushrooms, and spinach - surprisingly flavorful and satisfying.
Anthony with his bountiful taco salad in a flour tortilla basket
I wouldn't go so far to say that Mole's food is as good as the Mexican I can get in California, but it's definitely my favorite Mexican restaurant (along with Papazul in Soho) in the East Coast. Considering I am continuously on the search for good Mexican, that says a lot. Go to Mole for a good margarita and a hearty, fresh Mexican meal in a cozy, charming, and vibrant setting. A definite stand out in the typically chique / sceney West Village bistro scene. I have a feeling that despite its hidden location on Jane and Hudson, this place will stick around for a while. Here's hoping!

Website: www.molenyc.com
Location: 624 Hudson Street at Jane Street

Thursday, February 25, 2010

L'Artusi - L’ARTE DI MANGIARE BENE is right!

I'm sitting on the couch after an evening at L'Artusi with my team at work, and for once in my life, I can say that I feel just perfectly full after a four course (with a mix of dishes each round) Italian meal. That fact alone makes L'Artusi a unique and worthy find - its variety of light fishes, meat-centric mains, and hearty pastas appeals to not only those hankering for a heavy traditional Italian meal, but also to those craving something light and simple. Plus, the menu and food quality are not the only things going for this place - unlike its sister restaurant, Dell'Anima, L'Artusi has an ample, airy space with a beautiful bar and open kitchen on the first floor, as well as an upstairs to seat at least 20 small tables. With its brighter lighting and chic, yet cozy feel, the setting stays true to its classy West Village home, and is a great spot for any function - a fun date, group dinner or a meal solo at the bar. Despite the steady influx of clientele, the service is consistently attentive and personal - our server proved to be very eager to ask our questions, and if she wasn't readily available, another was right behind her to help. Great, well-rounded find that I'd 100% recommend.

Let's cut to the chase and talk about what REALLY matters - the food. I have to say the first time I visited L'Artusi, I was powering through week one of a 21-day cleanse, and therefore restricted myself from tasting virtually anything on the table. Talk about torture. However, there's always a silver lining - visiting with no restrictions tonight felt like Christmas morning. I came with the intention of trying everything, and fortunately, my colleagues were willing to share!

We followed our waitress's advice and ordered a few sharable appetizers to start, two pastas for what they call a "mid-meal," and then individual main courses. The standout appetizer: Roasted Mushrooms with fried egg, pancetta, and ricotta salata. The broken egg yolk was the perfect mild, creamy compliment to the bed of well-seasoned savory mushroom bits and crisp fried pork. Incredibly unique yet addictive flavor combo. Sinful!
But that's not to say that the other dishes paled in comparison. Served as a stack of cool, crunchy leaves dressed lightly with mild gorgonzola and roughly chopped hazelnuts, the Butter Lettuce Salad was another example of simple flavors combined to create a masterpiece.
For those in the mood for something even more light, the Citrus-Fennel Salad is a must, and for the 1 in 100 beet fans, the beet salad served on a bed of greens with a creamy, mild goat cheese base is also a winner. After the appetizer course there was no doubt in my mind that the meal would end well.
The pastas were probably my favorite part of the night. The tagliatelle "bolognese bianco", with thick, wide, al dente green pasta and a surprisingly light, tomato-less meat sauce was incredible. I'm not typically a bolognese fan, but this dish successfully showcased each key ingredient, unlike the usual three or four noodles swimming in an overpowering and oily, sloppy-joe like sauce. The Garganelli with mushroom ragu was yes, you guessed it, also delicious. The pasta was just perfectly cooked with that subtle density I look for and coated with a hearty, well-balanced finely-chopped mushroom sauce. The portions were a perfect size to share for 2 or three people as an appetizer - two for six mid-meal was plenty.
For my main, I had the Pan Seared Branzino with olives, lemon, and honey. The honey was hardly noticeable but added a subtle sweetness that balanced out the saltiness of the olives. I could have devoured pounds of the perfectly-crispy fish skin, and the meat itself was light and delicate. The ONE flaw I would point out in the dish was the olive mixture laying beneath the fish. A pile of 12-15 olives with sauteed lemon rhind is too strong an accompaniment to such a delicate fish, but it definitely didn't ruin the fish itself.
I was also able to taste the roast chicken which was SO tender and crispy. However, don't expect your typical Italian roast - L'Artusi's chicken is a deboned and flattened dark meat piece with a very flavorful skin. Different yet delicious.
The crispy roasted brussel sprouts and thick and creamy polenta with pecorino were great Contorni choices.
No meal is complete without dessert, and on a special occasion, why not order four! I loved the chocolate budino (we ordered two) which I'm used to calling "pot de cremes" - the chocolate flavor was bittersweet and rich; the texture utterly smooth. The other two desserts - the pineapple coconut sundae and the chocolate semifreddo were also tasty, but nothing I would remember months down the road. Then again, its tough for a dessert to strike my interest without a big scoop of ice cream on the side.


Chocolate sauce is poured atop the semi-freddo tableside
L'Artusi gets an A plus in my book for its well balance of all things important in a good restaurant: ambiance, service, menu selection, and food. Definitely plan to go back soon when my friends come to town.

Website: Lartusi.com
Address: 228 West 10th Street between Bleecker and Hudson

Sunday, February 21, 2010

Zampa - no frills Italian small plates

Last evening my friend Sonia and I dined at Zampa and had an overall pleasant experience. I appreciate this place for its diverse menu selection and cozy, warm ambiance, but the food can be unpredictable. I've found that generally, I have the best luck with the appetizers and the small plates, which focus on the flavors of 1 or 2 simple, fresh, and high quality ingredients. While the "large plates" are decent, they aren't the best depictions of simple Italian food that I've had, and the portions are anything but large. However, combining a relaxed yet energetic wine-bar vibe, friendly Italian servors, affordable prices, a-typical NY restaurant wait-times, and quite a varied menu, this place remains high on my list of neighborhood faves.

While I would classify Zampa as Italian, I wouldn't recommend it for those expecting homemade pastas and typical Italian mains. In fact, the only pasta on the menu is the Lasagna Bolognese, and the main courses are more inventive than what you'd expect at an Italian ristorante. However, I'd be surprised if you found trouble finding something tasty - there are tons of crostini, cheeses, meats, antipasti, and panini to choose from - carnivores and vegetarians alike are sure to find a winner.

Sonia and I started with the selection of 3 crostini - White Bean and Duck Proschutto, White Bean and Rapini, and Ricotta with Roasted Red Pepper. While I usually prefer ricotta with sweeter accompaniments, the roasted pepper combo happened to be my favorite. The white bean mixture had a deliciously chunky texture and was very well-seasoned, and all three crostini were perfectly toasted and piled high with toppings as I like. Next, we shared the Fennel and Arugula Salad with Oranges, which was great - light and refreshing with a well-balanced citrus-licorce-y flavor. The crostini and the salad was the perfect amount of food for an appetizer course.

Then, I had the Oven Poached Salmon with Lentils and Green Beans. While it was gorgeously plated, the salmon was overcooked, and the dill / parsley pesto piled atop clashed with the mild flavor of the lentils. The lentils, however, were actually perfectly cooked - a bit al dente as I prefer. Sonia ordered the Braised Short Rib Special, which was unfortunately overpowered by fat and bone and difficult to dissect due to the tiny serving dish in which it was served. The fat factor wouldn't have been so hard to work around had the bone been in a wider dish. Still, the meat that she did find looked tender and juicy, and Sonia said she was pleased with the dish. The warm, muffin shaped polenta served on the side definitely contributed to her evaluation.
One more bone to pick...I have to say their white wine needs to be served a few degrees warmer...my glass felt like it had been in the freezer, and it weakened the wine's flavor. But, the seriously heavy pours and the pre-glass selection tasting definitely made up for it!

Despite the imperfections I found in their main courses, I would recommend Zampa to anyone looking for a laid back, no frills, casual dining experience in the presence of an unpretentious crowd, or in the mood for a wide selction of italian antipasti. Don't spread it around though...this is one of the few places in New York city where you can be guaranteed a seat (or at least a minimal wait) on any night of the week.

Address: 306 W 13th St between 8th Ave & 4th St
Website: www.zampanyc.com

Thursday, February 18, 2010

Scarpetta....wow... WOW (the food).

Scarpetta, in my mind, is one of the most well-known Italian dining establishments in New York City. Mention Scarpetta to a past visitor and chances are they're a die-hard fan. With such a reputation, Scarpetta has been on my Must Try list for ages, but getting a reservation at a reasonable hour is a struggle ("only 5pm or 10pm available this Tuesday..."). Finally, I was given the opportunity to check out this mysterious gem / long-time fantasy for a team gathering, and left ample belly space the day of to make sure I arrived capable and eager to taste enough to give this supposedly incredible a fair assessment. Fortunately I wasn't paying :)

Scarpetta is in the heart of the Meatpacking District, so I expected the same sceney-swanky vibe like that of Buddakan, or Abe and Arthur's, or other over-hyped (despite decent) restaurants in the area. I was immediately proven wrong - the vibrancy and "cool" factor is still there, but the soft colors and warming lighting give it a sense of both elegance and comfort lacking at most restaurants. No pumping house music in the background, no snooty bartenders, no warehouse ceilings, and last but not least, space for 5 at the bar! I was instantly quite impressed.

My perspective on the service is mixed. Our waiter was young, natural, and personable, totally open to our questions and obviously eager about the restaurant's food. When he was around, he was charming and accommodating. However, when he disappeared, there was no sign of him ever returning. Wait time between courses was far too long, and simple requests for more wine or salt and pepper required a belting of "excuse me sir!" Probably to be expected due to the crowd - and it wouldn't stop me from coming back again.

Ok ok, on to the food. Firstly and most importantly, the bread basket...Scarpetta basically had me at hello. Before even ordering our food, we were handed a bountiful basket of meat and cheese filled spirals, soft foccacia, and crusty Italian rolls with an array of ricotta-whipped butter, eggplant caponata, and olive oil. Rule of Thumb: Exceeded bread expectations generally equals start to an excellent meal.

After attempting to restrain myself from bread, I tried virtually everything that touched the table. Do the same if you have the stamina. To start, we ordered the Creamy Polenta with Truffed Mushrooms, the Raw Yellowtail, and the Tagliatelle with Truffles and Parmesan.

Each dish was simply yet beautifully plated and utterly delectable in their own right, but the Tagliatelle received by far the most attention. The pasta, creamy, silky, and buttery, sat under the biggest mound of shaved truffles I have ever witnessed. At $42, this dish is quite the treat but worth every penny, and totally justified compared to the typical claiming-to-be-truffle-filled courses that arrive with three microscopic black specs.
By main course time my belly was feeling quite full, but once the Black Cod with caramelized fennel and sundried tomatoes reached the table I was back in the game. With melt in your mouth texture, perfectly crispy skin, and delicate yet bold seafood flavor, this cod was probably one of the best Italian fish dishes I have ever tasted.
For a more simple, yet equally solid dish, I would recommend Scarpetta's famous "Spaghetti Tomato & Basil" - sounds boring but the uniquely dense homemade noodles and light, yet ample tomato sauce make this dish seem unique.

The Roasted Chicken with parsnip puree was also very tender and flavorful, and another great picky-eater option. For the adventurous the Black Tagliolini with mixed seafood and sea urchin broth is a gold medal. While the dishes were on the heavier side, their unique flavors and textures made it worth rolling out of the restaurant at the end of meal. After dessert, that is.

I went a bit crazy for dessert - purely as a result of that incentive you get to eat more food once you've eaten so much already - like there's no turning back so you just keep going, consequences totally out of mind. So, instead of ordering 1 for the table, I ordered 3: the Chocolate Cake (HOLY MOLY BEST CHOCOLATE DESSERT EVER), the Chestnut Cake with prune ice cream, and the Banana Budino (what is that?) with pecan gelato and oat tuile. My intention to try one bite of each absolutely failed after trying one bite of each. The chocolate cake had that intense, chocolate flavor that sadly is so rare in chocolate desserts, and the accompanying burnt orange caramel gelato really brought out its true flavors. Though the Chestnut Cake wasn't my favorite, I'd definitely recommend it to those non-chocolate dessert fans (not sure who because I don't associate with them).

Hopefully you're convinced that Scarpetta's label as a "must-try" is justified. If not, maybe the fact that I'm sitting here wishing for more truffled tagliatelle despite my stomach-pinching elastic pants gives you ample proof. If you visit Scarpetta, definitely reserve in advance and eat VERY lightly that day - it would be a shame if you didn't have sufficient stomach space to taste the bounty of treats its menu has to offer!

Address: 355 West 14th Street near 9th avenue (near The Diner)
Website: www.scarpettanyc.com

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

Mercer Kitchen - come for the scene and to be seen, not for the food or service


I've been to Mercer kitchen countless times, and I always leave with the same impression. The restaurant is notable for the location - heart of Soho; the space - a chic, modern, clean-cut interior; and the people it attracts - celebrities ranging from Lenny Kravitz to Tom Cruise, but it's not somewhere to run to for the great bites or wonderful service. This particular visit was most notable for the miniature debacle.

My aunt made a 12pm reservation 2 weeks in advance, and the host promised brunch. Go anywhere, even the corner Sushi joint on a Saturday before dinner in New York, and you no doubt will find a standard brunch menu. 12pm rolls around at Mercer Kitchen and our party is seated, and within seconds the waitress hands over dinner menus. After rejecting what we thought were the wrong menus, we were told that due to the Valentine's Day "holiday," that only dinner is being served - all day. Who wants a rack of lamb first thing in the morning? When you want eggs, you want eggs, and despite our hissy fit no breakfast menu came our way. Minus 10, Mercer Kitchen. The day old basket of muffins on the house didn't do much to mitigate the pains either.

Anyhow, the lunch...or dinner...we did have was not bad, just not great. The pizzettes were about the size of a round pita, not at all enough for a full meal (and we weren't warned). My squash soup with mushrooms had great flavor, but it was as thin as chicken broth and served luke warm. Despite the fancy serving method (empty bowl with random particles then gets filled by waiter with soup from vessel), I wasn't impressed. My sister's shrimp cocktail looked decent, and her Fennel Salad actually was pretty tasty. Overall, none of the dishes on my table thrilled me and if it weren't for this review I'd probably forget what I ate by tomorrow.
If I could write home about one thing I ate, I would pick the Molten Chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream. At least the kitchen got molten down to a T - when the cake was pierced, warm, delicious, ooey gooey chocolate oozed out just like it should. Plus 1 point Mercer.

No real celeb sightings this time around, but the scene with the waiters over the menu confusion was enough to keep me entertained. The food wasn't great, but I'll be back simply for the small tinge of celebrity I feel in Mercer Kitchen's presence.

Website: www.mercerhotel.com
Location: 99 Prince Street @ Mercer in the heart of Soho

Monday, February 15, 2010

Almond - sure, it's good


Almond took Borough's place in the Flat Iron about a year or so ago, and since it opened it's received great reviews and is generally always packed. The diverse, Americanized French menu provides a variety of options for the hearty or complicated eater, and the place has managed to accomplish a warm, intimate glow in a large space with candles, low lighting, vintage mirrors, and hardwood floors. Versatile as well, as it can easily fit both a good number of large tables and a bar scene.

I went for dinner, and my only qualm about the space is that if it's not totally full, it can feel a bit like a vacant warehouse. However, I can say that they do the best possible job in making the empty space feel inviting with the dim lighting, homey decor and subtle background music. The booths are quite comfortable, and the service was great, so the externalities net-net fit the build of a good restaurant.

The bread was served immediately, but stale and crusty, it was a big disappointment for a French restaurant. My aunt ordered the cheeseburger for her main course, and that looked quite juicy and delicious. My scallops, served with red cabbage, polenta ravioli, and duck proschutto was just an overwhelming party of over-powering, clashing ingredients. It felt like 3 separate dishes smashed into one, and what I thought was going to be a bit light and unique turned out to be a total disaster. Each scalloped was accompanied by sand, and I could hardly finish a quarter of the portion.

However, the bad main course experience was definitely mitigated by the ultimate Pot de Creme with fresh whipped cream and almonds - this dessert was superbly rich and decadent, and I would order it again and again.

Though my experience wasn't the best, I would 100% give almond a second chance. I think I failed to order correctly - I suggest sticking to typical french bistro dishes - the roast chicken, the steak frites, or the croques monsieurs - and staying clear from the seemingly inventive menu items. I hope to try Almond next for brunch, as I've noticed most of the rave reviews are a result of the breakfast items such as the delicious french toast. The space is great for groups, so consider Almond for your next laid back, non-food focused gathering.

Address: 12 East 22nd Street(between 5th Ave & Broadway)
Website: www.almondnyc.com

Dell'Anima - a successful combo of coziness and swank

I've been dying to try Dell'Anima since I moved to the West Village, and finally stopped in for Valentine's Day. I was pleasantly surprised to enter a warm, intimate space after constantly hearing about its popularity and dodging crowds of people outside this place on my daily walk home. Though the name and menu give it an aura of sophistication and refinement, the small space and friendly service send the opposite message, which I consider a real plus. Staff is generous and friendly; when I began asking the bartender questions about the wines by the glass, he graciously offered me tastings of at least 5 different bottles. We were seated within 15 minutes of our reservation, and service was timely and accommodating despite the crowd.

I'm a huge crostini fan so quite the tough critic when it comes to judging a restaurant's crostini selection. Dell'Anima has 5 options to choose from - I did the 3 for $10 - and a unique way of serving. Rather than serving the crostini prepared, diners are given a bowl of warm, olive oil-drizzled bread alongside the various selected crostini toppings. The bread was a bit thicker than what I'm used to, but deliciously doughy and flavorful. Though I didn't mind the extra step of spreading my own toppings aboard the crostini, I much prefer being served an appetizer that requires nothing more than eating. The Octupus Passina Crostini was a bit on the fishier side, but very flavorful and textural. The Avocado Crostini was my favorite, and the Rapini-Pesto Crostini was delicious as well. Frankie's Spuntino in LES still takes the cake for best crostini in NYC.

The Endive Salad with Pecorino and Anchovy Dressing was actually the star of the night - crisp, perfectly chilled, and refreshing, it was the perfect compliment to the various olive-oil laden dishes. The Garganelli with Funghi Trifolati was deliciously flavorful, with no shortage of mushrooms, but it was a bit on the greasier side as non-tomato-based Italian pastas usually are. For my main, I ordered the Pollo "al Diavlo" - dark and light meat chicken with a spicy and overwhelmingly flavorful (in a good way) skin crust, accompanied by a well seasoned and generous side of broccoli rabe. The portions were overall very generous, but the food was just perfectly filling and surprisingly light. For dessert, I tried both the Chocolate Hazelnut Torte with Fior de Late gelato, as well as the housemade Mint Stracciatella Gelato - both were light and perfectly sweet.
Overall my experience at Dell'Anima was very positive - I love the warm, inviting vibe, and the food is affordable, simple, creative, and beautifully crafted. This place is perfect for a romantic date, a dinner solo at the bar, or a small (as in tiny) group. Book in advance for a good table.

Address: 38 8th Avenue @ Jane Street, New York, NY